Life is tough in Makoko, a sprawling slum of some 85,000 inhabitants, built on stilts into the putrid waters of Lagos Lagoon in Nigeria. The fish in the lagoon is dying, there is no electricity or running water and raw sewage laps at the floors of many dwellings. Yet these concerns pale into insignificance in the face of the greatest threat to this 200-year-old community - the threat of eviction. Makoko sits atop some of the most expensive real estate in Nigeria's thriving, chaotic commercial capital and developers are lining up to build luxury residential complexes on the waterfront.
The modern-day slum grew out of an old fishing village beyond the reaches of the city. But in recent years, Lagos has mushroomed into Africa's biggest city with a population estimated to be over 20 million. Somehow, Makoko has remained untouched by the breakneck development occurring all around it in downtown Lagos. The city authorities refuse to recognise the huge web of interlinking clusters of slum houses as a legitimate settlement and have therefore withheld basic services such as electricity, water, schools and hospitals from the community.
Assisted by local vigilante groups, the baale (or chieftains) of Makoko make decisions for the running of the community to ensure law and order and private enterprise takes care of the rest. Like any other neighbourhood, Makoko has private schools, health clinics, traditional healers, restaurants, hair salons, churches, photo studios and tailor shops. Ironically it is water - clean water - which poses the greatest challenge for this floating city. Clean water is available for a fee from local businesses.